Winter can be a beautiful season with its snowy landscapes and cozy vibes, but it can also bring some serious headaches if you’re not prepared—especially when it comes to a vacant house. If you own a property that remains empty during the colder months, such as a vacation home or a rental unit between tenants, you should consider protecting its plumbing. Why? Frozen pipes can turn into a costly nightmare faster than you can say “burst pipe.”
Why Winterizing Plumbing in a Vacant House is Crucial
Cold weather is particularly harsh on plumbing systems, especially in homes that lack adequate heating or temperature control. When temperatures drop below freezing, any water remaining in your pipes can freeze into ice. Ice expands, and that pressure can cause your pipes to burst. Trust me, a burst pipe isn’t just a small leak—it can flood your home and ruin walls, floors, and more.
Preparing to Winterize: What You Need to Know Before You Start
Before you roll up your sleeves and get to work, let’s ensure you have everything you need to winterize the plumbing in your vacant house. A little preparation goes a long way in making this process smooth and safe.
Having these on hand will save you time and frustration:
- Pipe insulation (foam tubes or heat tape to protect exposed pipes)
- Non-toxic antifreeze (look for RV antifreeze, safe for plumbing)
- Air compressor (to blow out leftover water from pipes)
- Wrench or pliers (for shutting off valves)
- Buckets and towels (for any spills while draining)
- Flashlight (to check dark areas like basements or crawl spaces)
Now that you’re prepped, let’s dive into the heart of this guide—a detailed, step-by-step walkthrough on how to winterize plumbing in a vacant house. I’m breaking this down into manageable chunks so you can follow along easily.
Turn Off the Main Water Supply
The very first thing you need to do is cut off the water supply to your house. Why? Because if water keeps flowing into your pipes, there’s no way to fully drain or protect them from freezing. Shutting off the main valve prevents any new water from entering the system, giving you control over what remains inside. To do this, locate your main water shutoff valve. It’s often near the water meter, in the basement, or close to where the water line enters your home. Once you find it, turn the valve clockwise until it’s fully closed. If it’s a lever-style valve, flip it to the “off” position. Test it by turning on a faucet—if no water comes out, you’ve done it right! If the valve is stuck or leaking, don’t force it; call a plumber to avoid making the situation worse.
Drain the Water from Pipes and Fixtures
With the water supply off, it’s time to drain any remaining water from your pipes and fixtures. Leftover water is your enemy—it can freeze, expand, and cause your pipes to crack. Draining everything thoroughly is key to preventing damage. Start by opening all the faucets in your home, both indoors and outdoors. This includes sinks, showers, bathtubs, and outdoor spigots. Leave them open to let air in and water out. Next, flush all toilets to empty their tanks, and use a sponge or towel to soak up any remaining water in the bowl. Don’t forget your water heater—turn it off (unplug it if electric or set the gas to “pilot”), then attach a hose to the drain valve at the bottom and empty it into a bucket or outside.
Use Compressed Air to Blow Out Remaining Water
Even after draining, tiny amounts of water can linger in your pipes, especially in hard-to-reach spots. That’s where an air compressor comes in. Blowing out the remaining moisture ensures your pipes are as dry as possible, minimizing the risk of freezing. Here’s how to do it safely. First, make sure all faucets are still open. Attach the air compressor to an outdoor spigot or a faucet with an adapter. Set the compressor to a low pressure (around 30-50 PSI) to avoid damaging your pipes—too much pressure can cause leaks or cracks. Starting from the farthest faucet, work your way through the house plumbing, blowing air through each line until no more water or mist comes out. Take your time; rushing could leave water behind.
Add Non-Toxic Antifreeze to Drains and Traps
Now that your pipes are drained, let’s add an extra layer of protection with non-toxic antifreeze. This stuff is designed to prevent any residual water in drains or traps from freezing. However, here’s the catch: never use regular automotive antifreeze. It’s toxic and can damage your plumbing or harm the environment. Instead, pick up RV antifreeze, which is safe for plumbing systems and usually pink in color. Pour approximately half a gallon of antifreeze into each toilet bowl, then flush to allow it to enter the trap.
Insulate Exposed Pipes and Vulnerable Areas
Some pipes in your home are more likely to freeze because they are located in unheated areas, such as basements, attics, or crawl spaces. Insulating these exposed pipes is a must to keep them safe from the cold. Think of insulation as a warm jacket for your plumbing—it traps heat and blocks out the chill. You have several options for insulation materials. Foam pipe sleeves are super easy to use—just cut them to size and wrap them around pipes. Heat tape or heat cable is another excellent choice, especially for pipes in extremely cold areas. Plug it in, and it gently warms the pipe to prevent freezing. For larger areas, like a basement wall near copper pipes, consider adding insulation board or sealing gaps with caulk to block drafts.
Protect Outdoor Plumbing Fixtures
Don’t forget about the plumbing outside your home—outdoor faucets, hose bibs, and irrigation systems are just as vulnerable to freezing. A cracked outdoor spigot can lead to water damage inside your walls, so let’s secure these areas as well. Start by disconnecting and draining all garden hoses. Water left in a hose can freeze and damage the faucet it’s attached to. Next, turn off the water to each outdoor faucet (if they have individual shutoff valves inside) and open the spigot to drain. For extra protection, install insulated faucet covers—they’re cheap, easy to find at hardware stores, and slip right over the spigot to shield it from the cold.
Maintain Temperature and Monitor the Property
Even with all these precautions, winter can still throw curveballs. That’s why maintaining a minimum indoor temperature and keeping an eye on your vacant house is a smart final step. A little warmth can go a long way in preventing frozen pipes. Set your thermostat to at least 55°F (13°C), even if no one’s living there. This keeps the air inside warm enough to stop pipes from freezing, especially in house walls or unheated areas.
Additional Tips and Common Mistakes to Avoid
You’ve got the main steps down, but let’s cover a few extra plumbing tips and tricks to make sure your winterizing game is on point. Additionally, I’ll highlight some common pitfalls to avoid. A little knowledge now can save you from big headaches later. First, always double-check that all faucets are left open after draining. Closed faucets can trap pressure and cause damage if any water remains. Also, don’t overdo the antifreeze—using too much is wasteful and can create a mess when you flush the system in spring. Stick to the recommended amounts on the bottle.
When to Hire a Professional for Winterizing Plumbing
While DIY winterizing is entirely doable for many homeowners, there are times when hiring a professional is the smarter choice. Let’s discuss when you need help and why it’s worthwhile to invest in protecting your vacant house. If your plumbing system is old, complex, or has a history of plumbing issues, a professional can assess risks you might miss. For example, hidden leaks or corroded pipes could turn into disasters if not addressed before winter. Additionally, if you’re short on time or lack confidence in using tools like an air compressor, a plumber can handle the job quickly and safely.
